I'm pretty simplistic when it comes to exposure/whitebalance, I reckon I got
on alright for years shooting daylight colour transparency film - no cc
filters in daylight, 80A filter for tungsten.
All you need to do is set the white balance on your E-? to daylight (*
symbol) in daylight and to the tungsten or fluorescent symbol for
tungsten/fluorescent light indoors. That will get you so close to the "ball
park" on WB that all you need to do is a minor tweak in post processing.
Custom white balance is a waste of time when you're shooting, if you really
need to get accurate colour balance then shoot a grey card and adjust in
post processing.
As for exposure, set your E-? display so it shows the blown highlights, then
decide what you do about it after the first shot. Either accept that the
highlights will be blown (e.g. when shooting a backlit portrait), or adjust
the exposure so the highlights aren't blown (e.g. for a landscape). If the
IMPORTANT highlights haven't saturated the sensor then that's about the best
you can do, try to recover shadows in post processing if they're also
important.
...Wayne
Wayne Harridge
http://lrh.structuregraphs.com/
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brian Swale [mailto:bj@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Tuesday, 20 October 2009 7:49 PM
> To: olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [OM] Exposure Was: raw vs JPG Was:No E-System pro camera
>
> Jim Couch replied to my questions
>
> > Are you shooting using ESP metering? I have found that ESP (or
> Nik*n's
> > Matrix) metering often gets fooled when you have large areas of white
> or
> > highlights in the photo. It seems to be fine for a lot of stuff, but
> for
> > some things I am not sure what the camera is thinking. I usually
> shoot
> > landscapes using spot meter or averaging. Maybe it is all of the
> years
> > shooting slides, but I have a better chance of nailing the exposure
> on an
> > averaging meter with some override than I do with the matrix meter.
> >
> > Jim Couch
> >
> > Brian Swale wrote:
> > > With OM digital, my first gripe is that the rear display screen
> nearly always
> > > shows a good exposure, no matter how far off good it is. Basically,
> these
> > > things are programmed to tell lies regarding excellence of
> exposure.
> > > Secondly, and since a lot of my photography is landscape,
> frequently with a
> > > fair amount of white cloud in the view, I have not been able to
> figure out why
> > > in some shots the (E-1, E-3) gets it right, and in some shots
> clearly takes the
> > > reading off the cloud (ugh!). Photos with no sky or cloud nearly
> always are
> > > well exposed.
>
> Having just checked the manual, I find I have been using centre-
> weighted
> averaging metering. Whether or not that is what has caused me grief
> previously, I'm not too sure.
>
> Focussing is currently on all-target AF mode.
>
> A G++gle search brought up these URLs amongst others, and I conclude
> from these that I should be paying a lot more attention to the White
> Balance.
> This is a step I never think about; probably a mistake.
>
> http://www.olympusdigitalschool.com/Photo_Lessons/E1_How_To_Use_The_Spo
> t_Metering_Mode/index.html
>
> http://forum.fourthirdsphoto.com/archive/index.php/t-49378.html
>
> http://www.dcviews.com/press/Olympus-E-300-103.htm
>
> http://www.amazon.com/review/R1K9W39WCG94TG
>
>
> Brian Swale.
> --
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