Thanks for the info & the reworked pics - I will go back to the negs & try
scanning to RAW as you suggest.
Often use RAW with my e-1 but have never bothered with scans.
Regards - Martyn
-----Original Message-----
From: olympus-owner@xxxxxxxxxx [mailto:olympus-owner@xxxxxxxxxx]On
Behalf Of Moose
Sent: 01 August 2006 09:47
To: olympus@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [OM] Re: Martyn's Olympus Odyssey pictures
Moose wrote:
Responding to myself, about something I didn't mention.
> ...........
> Depends on how you had VueScan set. With such high key images, the white
> point setting is very important. With the bright images here, I would
> just set it at zero. That way, you are sure you are capturing all the
> film and scanner have to offer and not throwing any highlight detail in
> the software. In some images, I see a difference between say .001 and
> .002. With many others, something like 0.5 or even more works well.
> Recent versions of VueScan have a curve adjustment, at least in the pro
> version, that could be used to stretch out those highlights before
> having to go into an editor.
>
With the pro version of VueScan, you can scan once to a RAW file. You
can then try rescanning with various settings from the RAW file without
needing to actually rescan the film. Much quicker and easier. The RAW
files are huge if you include the IR channel for dust elimination on
rescans, but you can just erase it after you get the scan you want.
I often just scan the actual film to RAW only, which is quicker than
outputting a 16 bit TIFF, as the file is actually written as the
physical scan is progressing. I then scan to TIFFs from the RAW files
all at once in a batch. Any of those that need special help, I can
quickly rescan from the file. After I get everything as I want it, I can
dump the RAW files.
Moose
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