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[OM] Re: Help with FL-50

Subject: [OM] Re: Help with FL-50
From: Chuck Norcutt <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 14:03:08 -0400
Untitled wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi.
> 
> Several questions regarding the FL-50 flash.
> 
> I am borrowing a friends FL-50 right now. Although I havent used it
> much - which is good cuz that means I probably wont spend that much
> $$ on a flash. The couple of times that I did use it - I wasnt very
> happy with the results. The photo's were a little dark. I used the
> flash in TTL mode and figured it would be automatic. Events that
> require flash are tough sometimes because you have to shoot quickly
> or lose the shot. Not enough time to fiddle around with the flash
> settings.

One of the tricks to getting a good flash exposure is to shoot in manual 
mode at a fixed distance.  I don't really believe in guide numbers since 
  they tend to be inflated.  But let's say that you determine by 
whatever means (I prefer a flash meter) that the correct exposure at ISO 
100 is f/8 at 10 feet.  Learn to estimate as accurately as possible when 
you are 10 feet from the subject.  Assuming you allow enough time for 
the battery to fully charge the capacitor you will get consistently good 
exposures.  The recharge time is important since it's often at least 
double what the manufacturer says it is and even longer if the batteries 
are a bit weak.  Even if you're off by a foot or so in either direction 
you're well within the range of being able to make exposure corrections 
in post processing... especially if you're shooting raw.  Make up the 
composition by zooming with the lens and not with your feet.  Always 
stay X feet away from the subject.
> 
> A couple of photo that I took were nice and bright w/o post
> processing. The rest of them I had to post process in the Olympus
> software to "instant fix" and "auto tone" them...which made them
> brighter. A couple of photos were very grainy after post-processing.

The graininess is noise in the shadow areas.  Boosting the brightness 
brought out the noise.

> 
> I am not a very good flash photographer - I already know that. .

You're two images look OK to me.  You got good exposures in each with no 
significant shadows.  That's success.

> 
> The zoom on the flash only goes up to 42mm. If I am using a 14 - 54
> lens and shoot at 54 - will the flash output to cover that?

The flash will cover it on the long end but not on the short end.  The 
spec says the angle of coverage is 28x34 degrees at the tele end.  If 
you're using a longer lens the field of view will be narrower and the 
flash will simply be lighting a larger area than it technically needs 
to.  At the short end the angle of coverage is 58x70 degrees which is 
the nominal coverage angle for a 28mm lens in 35mm format and a 14mm 
lens in 4/3's format.  If you're shooting with the 14-54 you should be 
covered (although I wouldn't be a bit surprised to see a little 
vignetting at the wide end).  If you're using the 7-14mm lens, however, 
you're in flash coverage angle trouble below 14mm... unless you bounce 
the flash to allow the beam to spread out some more.

> 
> Here is a sample of one photo that I took last night....this came out
> good without major post-processing:
> 
> http://flickr.com/photos/12378900@N00/126732105/in/set-72057594104138449/

This one looks good except that it was a little bit too red for me.
> 
> 
> Here is another that I took for a school event - this one required
> post-processing and the faces are little orangy.
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/universalschoolbuf/118178809/in/set-72057594091010578/

I detected a yellow cast to this one which I was able to remove.  The 
jackets and shirts suddenly became a much more neutral gray.  The skin 
color, however, was very little affected and I couldn't fix that without 
affecting everything else.  Is it possible you were using a slow shutter 
speed on this shot and the color balance was affected by bright 
incandescent lights nearby?

When shooting flash it often helps to realize that you are always making 
two exposures.  The first it the near instantaneous flash with a 
blue-white light.  The second is the ambient light (typically yellow or 
reddish) whose effect varies from near nothing at high shutter speeds to 
very significant at slow shutter speeds.  When shooting flash you need 
to choose the shutter speed that will give you whatever effect you do or 
don't want from the ambient light.  Slow shutter speeds may also 
introduce blur from subject motion which may or may not be desirable.

Chuck Norcutt

> 
> 
> Your assistance is appreciated.
> 
> - Ali
> 
> 
> 
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