Shutter speed ball bearing should be lubed with a grease, like 023
photolube. Could be that the body is so used that a track has worn into the
clicks of the ss dial, causing the bb to get caught and jam at each detent.
John Hermanson
Camtech Photo Services, Inc.
21 South Lane, Huntington, NY 11743
omtech@xxxxxxxxx | www.zuiko.com
Factory Trained OM Service since 1977
__________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Manuel Viet" <oly@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <olympus@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 9:07 PM
Subject: [OM] Now that my winder is fixed... on to the 2n !
>
> While I'm in the process of improving the shape of my equipement, and
> after I
> had here a much needed help with my winder, I'd like to have an advice
> about
> a little (?) problem with my OM-2n. But first, let me sum up the way I
> bought
> it. So, my trusty OM-1 had shown the symtoms of what I later found to be
> the
> infamous "foam rot" syndrom. After googling, I understood what was going
> on,
> and decided the best way to cure it was to change the pentaprism, so I
> went
> on a tour of all the used gear resellers near my home, and finaly bought a
> BER OM-2n which had obviously its mirror stuck upward, and the speed ring
> selector locked solid on 'B' (impossible to move on another speed).
>
> But before dismantling it, I googled another bit of info, located the B2
> ball
> (the one responsible for the 'click' when setting speed) on a diagram, and
> tickled it through the opening of the mount with a needle. The ball moved
> enough, the speed ring disengaged, the reset and a pair of battery did
> their
> magic, and I was in possession of a fully working OM-2n for a price I
> won't
> mention to avoid heart attacks among the weakest of the readers. As of my
> OM-1, I finally decided I could live with the fine line remaining after
> the
> cleaning of the foam, and I cleaned the 2n as well. All is well that ends
> well ?
>
> Well, not so-so, because time to time, the speed ring still locks, and
> more
> generaly, it's much harder to move than on my 1. I'd love to open the
> mount
> to get a look, but the body was tampered with before I got it, probably in
> a
> desperate attempt to unlock it, so the top screw of the mount is badly
> damaged, and some marks on the 'ears' of the speed ring induce me to think
> that the previous owner even tried to force it with a tool after he failed
> to
> open the mount. So I'm not inclined to add my own damages to this body,
> and
> if possible would like to keep it assembled because 99% of the time, it
> just
> works fine, and I'm mostly ready to live with it. Overall, the body is in
> bad
> cosmetic condition, sold black but today mostly showing brass and little
> enamel spots ;-) [a bit exagerated maybe...] ; my guess is that it
> received a
> "professional care" during its lifetime, and perhaps the B2 ball itself is
> worn out.
>
> I was thinking of the possibility to put a lubricant right on the ball and
> the
> inner part of the speed selector that move over it, drop by drop with a
> needle just like I did previously to reach this part, in the hope to
> smooth
> the movements. But before doing it, I'd like to have the opinion of more
> experienced readers, as well as tips on the kind of lubricant (if any) to
> use, because I'm well out of my field of expertise.
>
> --
> Manuel Viet
>
>
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