Moose dropped the following notes:
> The instructions for the 300D are very explicit about the
> Adobe RGB setting, "This is used mainly for commercial
> printing. Since the image will look very subdued, image
> processing will be required.
A problem identified. I checked the video driver settings and
found a setting problem there. However, my colors are still off
a little when compared to my A1 or VueScan outputs. Further
testing required.
> Maybe WB that's right for sRGB isn't right for Adobe RGB?
I suspect you might be onto something here. Adobe and sRGB are
rendering the spectrum a bit different.
> sort of like Portra NC on a flat day. Local contrast
> enhancement and a bit of curves generally brings things up.
I tried LCE on my sRBG, CS2, -1 Contrast test shot and it did
recover the "punch" I was looking for, but requires post
production to make happen. I'm trying to get it as close as
possible "out-of-camera".
> Have you tried a custom WB setting? Or fine tuning the preset
> WB settings? Dpreview said of the E-1 that it's WB Kelvin
> settings didn't agree with their their measured studio lights:
Funny you should mention that. The E-1's WB is predominantly a
blue-red filter, whereas my A1 is more blue-orange. Correcting
interior lights works well with either, but outdoor natural
light tends to be "warmer" with the A1 on the cloudy or shadow
setting then the E-1. The two are definitely not using the same
WB schema. However, doing a custom WB setting with either seems
to nail it down pretty close.
> You can also fine tune each of the preset white balance
> settings by a value of -7 (warmer; red) to +7 (cooler; blue).
I've been playing around with that and will probably implement
it a little more in the future. The biggest problem I find is
the gap between the 5300 and 6000 WB setting. I would like to
land between the two. However, for matching my on-camera flash
(stroboframe mounted Vivitar shot into a diffuser), 6000
(cloudy) is dead on.
> Just becasue they say CM4 is for portrait doesn't mean it's
> right for your portraits. Have you tried CM2 and 3?
Tried it, bought the t-shirt. Screws up the color balance in the
shadows.
> Just for a lark, I might try lowering contrast and raising
> sharpness and saturation in different combos. I can't even
> explain my rational. In fact, I'd probably sit down with
> any RAW converter that allows live preview and play with
> the parameter sliders a lot. Whatever workd best
> can then be made a custom setting in the camera.
This is my standard operating procedure. I spent many a day
tweaking the A1 in just this manner and I'm doing the same with
the E-1. The neat thing about the Olympus Studio software is
that the RAW converter screen utilizes exactly the same settings
as the in-camera. The conversion engine appears to be identical
and gives me identical results in controlled tests.
> How about putting a very slight warming filter on the lens,
> making a custom WB, then removing the filter? That should
> fool the camera into sightly stronger cooling, and might take
> the red down just that little bit.
That was sorta along the lines of my thinking too. Like I
mentioned above, the WB in the E-1 is more blue-red vs
blue-orange.
> Moose - just spitballing here....
Hey, it was helpful, though. Last night I was restoring photos
for a library and managed to try a couple other things while the
printer was cranking away. I think I might try putting some
yellow hi-liter on my bounce card.
AG
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