On auto, like any ultra-wide angle, you just have to be careful that you don't
include too much sky or dark foreground. Otherwise, point the lens down and
lock the exposure. Or use the spot meter.
I wouldn't fool with any fixed coupling gizmos; the lens works very well on
auto. It should be stopped down to f/4 - f/8, IME for best performance. Much
smaller can cause diffraction effects.
When I had the lens, I locked the exposure with a reasonsable amount of sky and
the exposures came out fine. Look here for a couple of examples:
http://www.skipwilliams.adahost.com/data/8mm-westfield/. The 4-picture series
were metered without the sun and the exposure locked for all four.
Skip
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>
>Subject: [OM] 8mm FE questions
> From: iwert <zuiko@xxxxx>
> Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2003 22:59:22 +0200
> To: <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
>I recently acquired an 8mm fisheye, what a wonderfull piece of glass.
>I have some questions using it however:
>
>When using it on an OM4Ti on auto, I suppose I won't get correct exposures
>using center weighed readings, since there only is a 23mm image circle, and
>the rest is black (which the computer wants to turn into grey...? so I get
>overexposure?) Anybody experienced with this combo to tell me whether I
>should compensate 1 or 2 stops?
>
>OTOH I thought of using the spot meter on some parts of the image for
>correct exposure, but this does not work since the 8mm lacks a diaphragm
>coupling lever (it has an automatic diaphragm however). So the camera
>constantly thinks it is at about f45 in stead of f5.6 or 2.8.
>
>I was thinking of putting a fixed coupling lever at f2.8 position so I can
>use the spot meter manually, just like with a zuiko shift lens? Would this
>work for spot metering? The interpolation to higher f values would not be
>the problem, and once you know the exposure the camera can be used in manual
>mode as well.
>
>All suggestions welcome.
>
>Anyway, this lens offers a very wide view of the world.
>
>Iwert.
>
>
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