At 06:46 8/24/02, Wayne Harridge wrote in part:
Program Mode, I wouldn't bother, just set a reasonable aperature and auto,
you probably want a reasonably wide aperature to limit your depth of field
(f2.8 ?).
Be cautious about using f/2.8 which can have a DoF too shallow at closer
distances. If you do go that wide, pay close attention to focusing
accurately. As with Wayne, I wouldn't bother with the OM-2S Program
Mode. I like to control the DoF by setting aperture while keeping a
reasonable shutter speed. Aperture priority AE allows this and the OM-2S
metering in this mode is very good. Consider also doing some (not all) of
them using fill. Much will depend on weather (type of sun and lighting)
and whether or not you're in shadow under open sky.
Film:
I would consider Kodak's Plus-X or Tri-X, and Ilford's HP-5 Plus, Delta
100, Delta 400 or FP-4 Plus. In addition to a variety of film speeds, this
list also represents a variety of other behavior (contrast, resolving
power, edge definition [apparent sharpness], etc.). See Photo Techniques
guide to B/W films to get a feel for what to expect:
http://www.phototechmag.com/buying_b-w.htm
I'm not a big fan of the C-41 multi-layer chromogenic films. IMO they're
designed to be general purpose films, so much so they don't have much
distinctive character. In addition, their comparatively thick emulsion
tends to reduce edge definition versus what can be had from a number of
true B/W films. They also don't have the archival life of true B/W; it's
no better than color negative, which is what the chromogenics really are.
I'm also not a big fan of Kodak's TMax films either (the 100 and 400). I
prefer the more traditional spectral response of Plus-X and Tri-X. The
TMax films respond more like Plus-X/Tri-X with a moderate yellow filter and
I'd rather control this myself with B/W filters (yellow, orange, red,
green, cyan, etc.).
I've also used TMax P3200 indoors under low available light at EI 1600
(push 1). Different from the other TMax films, it has a grain structure
and tonality at EI 1600 that is similar to early Tri-X, only two stops
faster! Not really as suitable for what you described, this is a sidebar
comment.
Another sidebar, my favored B/W is Agfa Scala 200X, which is the only true
B/W reversal film (also not what you were looking for). Just had a couple
Ilfochrome prints made from Scala transparencies (by an excellent lab in
Austin, TX). They look much, much different compared to traditional B/W
prints. The mid-tones have a subtle silvery appearance.
Ask 50 regular users of B/W film what to use and you'll likely get 50
different answers.
-- John
< This message was delivered via the Olympus Mailing List >
< For questions, mailto:owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >
< Web Page: http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright/olympuslist.html >
|