Yes, I meant Farenheit.
At 1:41 AM +0000 12/22/01, olympus-digest wrote:
>Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 01:31:57 -0000
>From: "Jon Mitchell" <jon@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: RE: [OM] Soldering on circuit-boards
>
>Damn, you scared me with this. I hope you're talking fahrenheit !! Even
>600 degree over here (celcius) would do some serious damage to a
>surface-mount type board.
>
>Also, whatever temperature you use, use a small tip. I've seen too many
>mistakes with people using an iron with a tip the size of a brick !!
>
>Regards, and a Happy Christmas to all. If you don't celebrate Christmas,
>that's fine too, but I can still wish you a happy one anyway 'cos I
>celebrate it !!
>
>Jon
>
>
>- -----Original Message-----
>From: owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
>On Behalf Of Joe Gwinn
>Sent: 21 December 2001 17:01
>To: olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [OM] Soldering on circuit-boards
>
>I forgot to mention one thing. It's most often not a good idea to use an
>800-degree soldering iron on circuit boards, as it may cause the copper pads
>to lift away from the board. Use 700-degree or 600-degree. Whatever the
>temperature, sufficient soldering will cause the pad to lift.
>
>If you do have a lifted pad, carefully clean it and the board with a
>fiberglass brush (to roughen the surfaces) and acetone (to remove any bits
>of solder flux), and glue it back down with a tiny dab of 8-hour epoxy glue
>spread very uniformly over mating surfaces. Hold the pad down with a bit of
>polyethylene film and rubber, pressed down with a clamp or weight. Leave
>undistrubed for 24 hours at room temperature. The polyethylene film, to
>which the epoxy will not stick, must be between pad/board and rubber.
>
>If the trace to the pad broke, glue pad in place as described above, clean
>trace and pad with the fiberglass brush, pre-tin trace and pad, and bridge
>the gap by soldering a short piece of pre-tinned wire to trace and pad.
>
>Joe Gwinn
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