Hi Tom and Gregg and the rest;
I have been lurking for quite some time overwhelmed with work and
family, with little time to contribute much to the list.
Thanks for the compliment Gregg.
Tom: What I used was nothing fancy or exotic. My primary tools through
the 1970's were Canon F-1 (old mechanical ones), 35mm f/2 (a fantastic
lens for the time), 85f/1.8, 135f/2.5 & 200 f/2.8. No flash, spot meter
on darkest spot on floor (light colored wooden floor in very dark
fieldhouse with pools of light and dark). Typical exposure was 125 to
250 @ f/2.8-4. I did not use a motor or winder, timing was everything,
catch the player in the brightest part of the floor (most light
reflection from below), and squeeze off a shot. Usually used 2-4
rolls/game, average 1 roll/ quarter & most times left at the 1/2 so the
photos would be ready by end of game for the sports editor.
On several occasions (we had a player with a great dunk shot), I would
set up a Canon A-1 (very new at the time) Canon 600 f/5.6 R lens, motor
drive MA, and remote LC at the end of the field house in front of the
band. This was aimed at the far basket and covered an area of
approximately 3x5 feet. Camera was oriented vertically, I then took a
position at mid court in the press box or near the players with an 85 or
135 on one camera and the remote trigger on a wrist strap so I could use
it for the dunk shot.
Another great camera to use in tight gyms is a Mamiya C-220/330 TLR with
65mm lens. Find a spot 1/2 way between the basket and the corner, rest
the camera on the floor and shoot away.
Film was good old Tri-X developed in D-76 at 70 degrees F. for 7-8
minutes. Small 2-4 reel Nikor tanks, gentle agitation by twist and
inversion 5 sec. every 30 secs. One-minute water pre-soak WITH
AGITATION and 2 minute water post-soak with NO AGITATION.
If I were shooting in these conditions today, I most likely would use
either Ilford Delta 3200 at 1600 in DDX and meter for the shadows, or
Fuji Neopan 1600 in DDX same way. For color Fuji 800 is hard to beat
and handles the weird light quite well. It also prints well on Konica
RA4 B&W monochrome paper in my processor and scans well too. Forget
Fuji 1600 color neg. film, very grainy.
Hope this helps Tom and others. Thanks again Gregg for bringing back
the memories, I may try some of this again this year. I think I can get
the passes since a long-time friend is the Sports Info. Director.
Perhaps shooting with a Rollei under the basket and OM4t with 135f/2.8
(thanks Tom)for the down court action. No winder, thank you, TIMING IS
EVERYTHING.
Mike
Mike Stoesz, VP; Rainbow Photography, Inc., Laramie, Wy.
Home of the highest university in the USA at 7,250 (2,200 meters) above
sea level.
Check your oxygen debit.
http://www.rainbowphoto.ws
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 22:37:21 -0400
From: Gregg Iverson <golftooter@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [OM] Re: Sports action inside gymnasiums
Hi Tom,
We used to have a guy on the list (Mike ) who shot lots of B&W film at
the
University of Wyoming basketball games back in the early '80s. I
remember
this because his enlargements (seems they were 16 X 20) were superb with
both the black and white players showing detail. I don't remember the
details of the developer he used, though. Maybe he is still reading
this
and will offer some advice.
Gregg
>Tom wrote:
>Thanks for the comments, but this is my third season shooting in this
gym.
>I sit right on the sidelines, so close I have to be sure my feet aren't
over
>the line. I use 800 film, as the 1600 is too grainy. I use the 85/2
>primarily, as a nice compromise. I've used the 100/2 as well, but it
is too
>long. It is not a full-size gym, in fact it is pretty small. The 85/2
>works when action is at the other end, while the 50/1.2 works great
when the
>action is at my end. I have a little room to crop, which is ok, since
I
>have a 5500x3500 pixel image to work with.
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