I'm back from my sojourn into the wilds of the USA. I've gotten my
Sagebrush quotent taken care of--that's for sure. Too bad you can't run a
combine over the sagebrush and turn it into oil. Some of our western
states would become mighty rich in a hurry. Meantime, let the cattle
graze--the land isn't worth much else.
I ventured out to the Badlands National Park where I spent two days roaming
around the shaped clay washes and pinnicles. It was cool enough that I
didn't have to do battle with the rattlers, bugs or vermin. However, the
bison were an adventure in themselves. I camped in the Sage Creek
campground where there were a dozen spots for campers, but at least twice
that many bison influencing your decision where to camp. I was completely
by myself here and managed to find a spot between the chips large enough to
pitch my tent in the howling wind somewhat near the pit toilet. That night
I was awakened by the sounds of nearby coyotes and miscellaneous
screeching, grunts and whistles of various creatures both large and small.
I made the mistake that evening (Monday night) of venturing into town
(Wall, SD) where I ate an aweful meal which later came to haunt me about
1:30AM. The cramps were reaching the point of desparation but it was quite
cold (below freezing) and a bison had taken up position immediately outside
my tent door. I thought if I held it that it would go away. Cramps and
the bison. Well, the bison was joined by another next to the tent. Great,
just what I need--a couple big, dumb cows on steroids blocking my way to
the john with a metal seat in the middle of the freezing night.
PPPPLLLLEEEEAAAASSSSEEEE let the cramps go away. I probably wouldn't make
it the 200 feet without blowing a gasket anyway. I'm doubled over now,
moaning and clutching my flashlight (not THAT one) and praying for relief.
Even if I made it to the john, I knew that it wouldn't have any toilet
paper and mine was locked inside the jeep where two more bison had parked
themselves.
In the morning I had gotten some good sunrise shots of the prairie and
drove down to Sheep Mountain Table. Although, 4WD vehicles aren't needed,
they are recommended because of the ground clearance. It was recommended
to me that Sheep Mountain Table was one of the most photogenic spots in the
park. I agree. I won't get into the history of this particular spot,
except to note that it is the site of one of the last Ghost Dances and that
the US military used it for a gunnery range. Go figure, a sacred location
used to pray for the destruction of the white man later taken and abused by
those very same white men. Anyway, at least the military built a good
access road to the top of the mountain. I saw an owl and several strange
creatures at the mountain. This is a good morning or evening spot for
photography and is far superior to all but maybe the cedar pass area for
pictures.
South of the Seabed Jungle overlook is the Conata Road which takes you nine
miles south to highway 44. Just about the time you reach 44, there is an
place where people have used as a junkyard. Old farm tools, debri and an
old, old car litter the site. The car was definitely a point of interest
and I shot a bit of film on that.
I ventured out into the wilderness area from the Conata picnic area and
spent a few hours wandering aimlessly through the gullies. It was warming
up so I was very alert for legless creatures of the slithery kind. I only
saw evidence of their existance, but nevertheless was dressed appropriately
for moderate protection. The clouds were building and I managed to get
some good pictures of highlighted hills and so forth. No need for color
film here, since everything is grey anyway. In the evening and morning the
hills do take on the color of the sun so think of them as visual
tofu--tasteless on its own.
By evening I had ventured back to the Cedar Pass area and roamed the
defined trails. These were relatively easy hikes and were a concentrated
way of seing the best within the park. Sunset was pretty good and I took
enough pictures to justify the trip back there. By this point I had seen
enough grey playdough to choke New York City so I went back to the campsite
and packed up the tent and headed west to Wyoming. (I later discover that
I left my campaxe behind. Grrr.)
Where to go notes in the Badlands National Park: Interstate 80 runs right
past the Badlands and there are two exits (131, 110) that are used to form
the loop. The entry fee is $10 per vehicle and most people are in the park
from three to five hours and stop at four overlooks. Next stop for the
average person is Wall Drug, then Mount Rushmore, Devils Tower and
Yellowstone. In the off-season the park will get 50-150 vehicles a day
wheras in July they run 1500-3000. Recently the park was expanded with the
addition of the Stronghold and Palmer Creek Units. These fall within the
Pine Ridge Indian Reservation so to get into these sections you must travel
down to the White River visitor center and arange for either permission to
get into the park or "hire" a guide. The Palmer Creek Unit is supposed to
be absolutely awesome, but access is nearly completely controlled. Had I
stayed longer, I would have tried to get in there. The problem is that
almost all trails (jeep trails) that are in the park require passing
through private property to get there. The Sage Creek campground only has
a few predefined spots and a couple pit toilets but no water. It is a
number of miles away from the prime viewing spots, but is surrounded by
classic prairie, bison, elk, etc. Well worth it for the photographer but
the badlands are limited to small mounds. I travelled around in the
surrounding Buffalo Gap National Grassland in my Jeep and spent more than a
mile or two in 4WD getting up and down steep gullies and washes. Plan on
everything getting very dusty here. No moisture to speak of and dust, dirt
and fosslized ash is everywhere.
Next stop,
Wyoming
Ken Norton
Image66
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